At Lima's Barra Chalaca, customers were reported queueing from 1 p.m. in 2019. They came for leche de tigre, once the liquid left from ceviche, now served as a substantial dish with corn, seafood, fish and fried squid. What began as a small appetiser had become a centrepiece presented in a large glass.
The queue follows a change in culinary status. A sharp liquid once saved from being wasted became something ordered on its own and used to define a restaurant. The afternoon line makes the former supporting element's promotion to starring dish visible on the street.